"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing".
Helen Keller
Bangalore - Amritsar - Srinagar - Leh - Ladakh - Lahaul Valley - Spiti Valley - Kinnaur - Shimla - Chandigarh - New Delhi - Agra - Bangalore.
30 days - 10323 kilometers - 3 international borders - 4453 photographs - 1 ride of a lifetime.
"My first solo" - dedicated to the heaven on earth.
The story so far...
PART 4.
Ladakh is called as a paradise on earth for a reason. The place is blessed with mesmerizing scenic beauty, majestic snow laden Himalayan ranges, lush green landscape, sparkling blue waters, deadly deep gorges and what not.
This place is an egregious example of what breathtaking natural beauty means; and I'm not even talking about the ladies here. Once here, its like entering a whole new world where one can relax, rejuvenate and give an unforgettable treat for the senses.
17th of June 2015 (Day 12).
Hunder - Diskit - Khalsar - Sumur - Panamik - Khalsar - Agham.
Total expenses = INR 1460.
Nubra valley has nothing but jaw-dropping scenery, nomadic tribes and lofty mountains that just look majestic even in their barren ness. For us, there was no skipping Nubra Valley (skipping it meant blasphemy). With otherworldly pink deserts, Hunder welcomed us with a smile.
It was a new day and we were hyped. With more than a couple of pieces of toast (toasted with homemade butter), scrambled eggs, an omelette and a hearty smile from the folks of the Homestay (people over there have the warmest of smiles one would ever see), we were at the Hunder Sand dunes.
The conjuring dunes which turns golden under the rising and the setting sun was definitely a no brainer. Hoping on one of those rare Bactrian Double Humped camels and exploring the sand dunes at Hunder was something we would have never missed even if our kidneys were being sold at an auction.
A bumpy safari which reminds one of the Silk Route days can be extended from hours to days, depending on the choice. We chose to do an hour ride (we had other s*** to do). We came out and we meet Mr.Vishnu Mehta again. He was riding with Enfield Riders. This time we talked about Shayok Village and it's notorious route (missing the untouched Turtuk was a heartbreak. So, missing Shayok was a definite no). He warned us about the route and cautioned us to be extra careful while taking that stretch. With some biker advice, we were off to Diskit.
Perched high up in the Himalayas at an altitude of 10000+ feet, overlooking the plains of Shayok river, stands the oldest surviving (14th century) Monastery in all of Nubra Valley - Diskit Gompa. Famous for it's Maitreya's statue (a staggering 105 feet), this Gompa might just turn Atheists into Believers.
As we entered, calm surrounded this ancient Monastery, a feeling that engulfed us as we stood and watched an impressive fresco and hundreds of butter lamps lighting the sanctum. The setting of the gongs was picturesque, so was the approach as one passes through arid flats. And the vista of Maitreya from the top, oh god!!!. It was remarkably imposing, affording many photo ops with the snowcaps as the backdrop.
We started cruising on motorcycles at our own pace to explore the remote corners of Ladakh's Nubra Valley letting the heady Himalayan wind ruffle our hair. We were at Panamik (most stunning sceneries enroute which made us fall in love with nature all over again). Panamik had these hot water springs. The temperature of water oozing out from mother earth happened to be so high that, it was directly used to cook raw rice. Creations of Mother Nature never cease to amuse.
Did I mention about the mysterious hidden lake which happens to be in the middle of nowhere surrounded by hills on all sides??. Exactly 6 kilometers from Panamik (towards Khalsar) exists Yarab Tso. Yarab Tso is completely untouched and very few know about it's existence. Considered as the holy lake for Ladakhis, Yarab Tso truly captures the heart and mind of every visitor. There is absolutely nothing which determines the lake's presence (not even a single sign board) and getting to it is a 20 minutes trek up the rugged hills. And in the middle you find this...
Splendid eh??. I had done my research and was lucky enough to visit it (evil smirk).
7 pm and we were in Khalsar (The last place where the food was available). Feasting on whatever available, we rode towards Agham village. It was getting really dark and the only option was to pitch tent. We camped for the night in no man's land. And we did have campfire too.
Overnight stay = absolutely no idea about the place (not even a single clue).
Stay type = Camping.
18th of June 2015 (Day 13).
Agham - Shayok - Tangtse - Lukung - Spangmik.
Total expenses = INR 400.
7 am breakfast time and all we had were peanuts. No seriously, this isn't a metaphor. We were literally eating peanuts. 7:30 am, after packing up everything, we were ready to conquer the unexplored.
They say you are not on an adventure trip until the danger fits you like a glove. Or like anything else that fits perfectly (One - that - must - not - to - be - named, *wink*). And that's the very reason why we opted for the direct route to Pangong Tso from Nubra Valley.
The Agham - Shayok desolated route is impossible for the most of the "homo sapiens" to accomplish without capturing a wish-granting leprechaun. And I'm not even talking about the roads here. Riding in this borderline brutal, almost inhuman environment is definitely not for those wimpy ones rescuing fair maidens and scared kittens from falling into a puddle.
Some are atrocious others are unbelievable and there are some which are downright frightening - The Roads. Yes, we call them roads. Well, they say, riding motorcycle is a passion for those who have the guts and the toughest of mind. Where road is just an irrelevant term. But riding on roads like these unequivocally demands testosterones (in truck loads that is).
The best part was, we were doing it with a luggage of 80+ kilos, 20+ liters of fuel (no fuel is available in this part of the universe, you have to carry your own fuel if you want to get out of this place on motorcycles), no food (literally) and definitely no help (the worst case scenario - you end up being dead). Well, it was real fun riding the stretch.
4 pm. We were at Tangste. We sat down to see one thing which made our grumpy stomachs do cartwheels with merriment. Food!!!.. Chow mein was all that was available. And it just felt like a banquet. A few miles later, "TRAIN HARD, FIGHT EASY" it said. A military sign board. It just awed.
The undisputed highlight of the region (Ladakh), which easily charms the socks off you without even breaking a sweat, also happens to be so surreal that, it almost resembles a dream. Pangong Tso - It just might bring life back to a dead soul.
7 pm. We were at Pangong Tso. Yeah, we did try to ride Marsimik La; but were denied permits. Anyway, while no words can apt enough to describe Pangong Tso, words like "grandeur and sheer opulence" can be put to use in describing it. This astonishing blue water body, guarded by looming mountains is one of the most beautiful lakes in the entire world (shared between India and China). Sitting on its shores, getting drenched in it's awesomeness and not giving a flying **** about mid 20's crisis was just the most worthiest thing to do there.
Caution : Your heart may skip a beat or two at the first sight of Pangong Tso. Please do not assume it as the side effects of munching on train loads of junk food in your lifetime.
Cooped in the midst of high Himalayas, this lake looks too stunning to be true. And I'm not even boasting it. Talk about gaping at larger than life landscape, Pangong Tso unquestionably gives an out of this world experience.
8 pm. We were at a home stay. 400 rupees for the night, which included Thupka (soup noodles made from Yak and Chicken meat), the night's dinner and breakfast for the next day. Not a bad deal eh??.
Overnight stay = Spangmik.
Stay type = Homestay.
19th of June 2015 (Day 14).
Spangmik - Man - Merak - Chusul - Tsaga La (Chaga La) - Loma - Hanle.
Total expenses = INR 130 (yeah that is all I spent today).
8 am. I bid adieu to Amit and cruised towards Chusul.
If you thought Agham - Shayok route is bad, this route is "EVIL". It just has scant vegetation and surreal surroundings. If offbeat is your calling, this route redefines offbeat. Riding this stretch and getting back to civilization can easily be called valiant. No seriously, riding this route involves having a brush with death (literally).
This turnpike definitely has never tasted tar in it's life. And the environment is downright scary. It was like taking the danger quotient ten notches higher. And when I say danger, I don't mean catching aimless spiders and beating the hell out of creeping cockroaches. I mean something which can wreck mind bending havoc to a person physically and mentally.
Getting lost here meant getting lost forever. The only way I ensured not being lost was, I clung on to the dusty tracks like an engine on a motorcycle. If you think, the motorcycle is nimble enough to slide along the tracks, you are 27000 million miles away from being right. With absolutely no one in sight, my mind started playing games on me. Not to mention the punishing heat. And the ordeal continued until I reached Loma.
Then came the first wave of surprise and then a wave of celebration. Surprise because, I was looking at freshly laid asphalt. Celebration because of the surreal pictorial aspect.
I was in Hanle. The location which houses the highest (disputed) observatory in the world, is also home to some kickass landscape. 6 pm. I was at the Hanle observatory. Looking at Astrophysics s*** weirdly and asking even weirder questions is what I did there. But it was fun.
At the end of the day, after having my fair share of cuts and bruises, I was back down to find a few travelers like myself pitching tents. The next thing I realize doing was smoking some unadulterated holy weed with them (my tent all pitched). We found peace by gazing at the stars. The distant twinkling, the different hues, the warmth which spread afar into our eyes was just splendidly beautiful. We were there when the sky put on a show in all its glory.
10 pm. I was cuddling my sleeping bag.
Overnight stay = Hanle.
Stay type = Camping.
20th of June 2015 (Day 15).
Hanle - Loma - Nyoma - Sumdo - Tso Moriri.
Total expenses = INR 630.
Today was spent exploring the other half of the Changthang region. The trail, a combination of adrenaline, danger and fun, had some kickass roads. Leave alone the beautiful natural features to an indefinite extent. Loma - Nyoma and sumdo was a little less extravagant as compared to other stretches of Ladakh (but yeah, it did have its own charm. No defying it).
I thought it was all about cage free living, open roads and raw freedom here, until the region threw in a sudden surprise - Kiagar Tso. Take a look.
But the real reason for me to head there was the lesser visited, breathtaking, reserved wet land which is completely in Indian subcontinent - Tso Moriri. Getting to Tso Moriri is more like hunting down grizzled bastards harder than the toughest coffin nail, armed with only your wits, guts and whatever trusted weaponry you can carry. All I meant to say is, the roads are shitty. But once you get there, the lake takes you for a spin.
While sunshine renders different shades of blue to it's frozen water, Tso Moriri is perhaps more awe-striking than Pangong Tso. I always imagined myself to walk right into a painting one day which was still wet; it's lake brimming with aqua blue/turquoise water. My imagination came true once I reached the shores of Tso Moriri.
This amazing lake can unprecedentedly be called a poet's muse, not only because of the phenomenal view of the lake which turns all the more magical around sunset as shadows encroach the golden looking barren mountains, layer by layer. But because there's something special about it which simply cannot be described in words. See what I mean.
8 pm. It was dinner time and I was enjoying a typical Ladakhi supper at a Homestay. INR 300 for the dinner, stay and breakfast for the next day. And yeah, I was accompanied by an amazing mate from Mumbai. Abizar was his name. He had just completed his 16 day trek and was having a little time for himself (a 16 day trek in high Himalayas is no child's play. You need some major balls to do it). It was real whimsical sharing stories.
End of day 15.
Overnight stay = Karzok Village.
Stay type = Homestay.
20th of June 2015 (Day 15).
Karzok - Sumdo - Polokung La - Pang - Lachung La - Gata loops - Sarchu.
Total expenses = INR 630.
It was a gloomy day. I stopped on the way to take some photographs of the jaw-dropping Tso Moriri. Even in the obscurity, the lake looks stunning. The almost dark clouds added to the coolness quotient of this beautiful lake. This is how it looked even on a bad day.
The road until Sumdo was all okay, until I took a left to head towards Polokung La. One hardly knows that this road exists. Leave alone being completely isolated and completely wild. Taking this barbarous route proved a little costly for me. 10 am. All of a sudden it started to rain and the temperature dropped drastically. Well, it was no stopping there. I put on my raincoat and ride for another half-hour.
The elevation ridiculously increased and breathing became a task (scarce of oxygen). The motorcycle ran on mostly 1st and 2nd gear until it stopped at a crossroad. I had no idea why the engine had stopped. I tried starting the motorcycle for quite sometime. Nothing worked. I was in the mercy of mother nature (nature doesn't compromise and she's definitely a force not to be reckoned with).
I knew fear was a very bad thing in these situations (I was all alone with more than 80 kilos of luggage, experiencing severe cold in the pouring rain, shivering and not knowing why the engine died). And losing hope was disastrous. I wasn't ready to abandon my motorcycle and walk back to civilization, so in my final attempt, I sand the spark plug, increase the idling and kick start the bike. And in that dreadful scenario, I heard that one thing which I was longing for - "The signature Royal Enfield thump". Was I happy you ask?. **** yeah. I was ecstatic.
My happiness didn't last long. I see the crossroads not knowing which direction to go (no directions whatsoever). Talk about getting royally screwed. I thought about going back to Sumdo, head to Upshi and take a different route altogether. But that meant losing a day. Travails of a traveler ??. Hell no. The idea of cruising around, answering to no man as you doggedly pursue your adventure lust is as badass as it gets. So I wait in the rain for 20 more minutes until a local showed up. I quickly asked for directions and carried on with my job of being the God of the world (that's how you feel when you ride a Royal Enfield).
The route which was devoid of anything but dismal sight had Polokung La and Tso Kar (La is a pass and Tso is a lake in Tibetan language). After all the ordeal, I was finally cruising on the Manali-Leh highway. The fact that I was able to see the Himalayas in all their splendor as well as get a peek at the gorgeous landscapes while I was at it, was fulfilling.
I was savouring the sights and sounds of mother nature. Not to mention the switchbacks which required a fair amount of grey cells to guide my movements. Then at 15302 feet came Gata Loops. A total of 21 loops so whirling, it literally took the meaning of a hairpin bend to dizzy new heights. Considering the whole trip, I had ridden on some really trippy s*** (read as unbelievable roads), but this one absolutely took the cake. I just loved them curves.
Traveling along the richest trails and ranges, I found myself at a small shack near Sarchu. For 200 rupees, the place was an invigorating resting location. It was no 5 star hotel, but was a 5 billion star hotel (got it mate?). Stargazing after the most enriching motorcycle ride and a vigor dinner meant only one thing. "Heavenly".
Overnight stay = Somewhere near Sarchu.
Stay type = Well, let's consider it as a Homestay.
To be continued....
Until then, ride hard ride safe!!!..
7 pm. We were at Pangong Tso. Yeah, we did try to ride Marsimik La; but were denied permits. Anyway, while no words can apt enough to describe Pangong Tso, words like "grandeur and sheer opulence" can be put to use in describing it. This astonishing blue water body, guarded by looming mountains is one of the most beautiful lakes in the entire world (shared between India and China). Sitting on its shores, getting drenched in it's awesomeness and not giving a flying **** about mid 20's crisis was just the most worthiest thing to do there.
Caution : Your heart may skip a beat or two at the first sight of Pangong Tso. Please do not assume it as the side effects of munching on train loads of junk food in your lifetime.
Cooped in the midst of high Himalayas, this lake looks too stunning to be true. And I'm not even boasting it. Talk about gaping at larger than life landscape, Pangong Tso unquestionably gives an out of this world experience.
8 pm. We were at a home stay. 400 rupees for the night, which included Thupka (soup noodles made from Yak and Chicken meat), the night's dinner and breakfast for the next day. Not a bad deal eh??.
Overnight stay = Spangmik.
Stay type = Homestay.
19th of June 2015 (Day 14).
Spangmik - Man - Merak - Chusul - Tsaga La (Chaga La) - Loma - Hanle.
Total expenses = INR 130 (yeah that is all I spent today).
8 am. I bid adieu to Amit and cruised towards Chusul.
If you thought Agham - Shayok route is bad, this route is "EVIL". It just has scant vegetation and surreal surroundings. If offbeat is your calling, this route redefines offbeat. Riding this stretch and getting back to civilization can easily be called valiant. No seriously, riding this route involves having a brush with death (literally).
This turnpike definitely has never tasted tar in it's life. And the environment is downright scary. It was like taking the danger quotient ten notches higher. And when I say danger, I don't mean catching aimless spiders and beating the hell out of creeping cockroaches. I mean something which can wreck mind bending havoc to a person physically and mentally.
Getting lost here meant getting lost forever. The only way I ensured not being lost was, I clung on to the dusty tracks like an engine on a motorcycle. If you think, the motorcycle is nimble enough to slide along the tracks, you are 27000 million miles away from being right. With absolutely no one in sight, my mind started playing games on me. Not to mention the punishing heat. And the ordeal continued until I reached Loma.
Then came the first wave of surprise and then a wave of celebration. Surprise because, I was looking at freshly laid asphalt. Celebration because of the surreal pictorial aspect.
I was in Hanle. The location which houses the highest (disputed) observatory in the world, is also home to some kickass landscape. 6 pm. I was at the Hanle observatory. Looking at Astrophysics s*** weirdly and asking even weirder questions is what I did there. But it was fun.
At the end of the day, after having my fair share of cuts and bruises, I was back down to find a few travelers like myself pitching tents. The next thing I realize doing was smoking some unadulterated holy weed with them (my tent all pitched). We found peace by gazing at the stars. The distant twinkling, the different hues, the warmth which spread afar into our eyes was just splendidly beautiful. We were there when the sky put on a show in all its glory.
10 pm. I was cuddling my sleeping bag.
Overnight stay = Hanle.
Stay type = Camping.
20th of June 2015 (Day 15).
Hanle - Loma - Nyoma - Sumdo - Tso Moriri.
Total expenses = INR 630.
Today was spent exploring the other half of the Changthang region. The trail, a combination of adrenaline, danger and fun, had some kickass roads. Leave alone the beautiful natural features to an indefinite extent. Loma - Nyoma and sumdo was a little less extravagant as compared to other stretches of Ladakh (but yeah, it did have its own charm. No defying it).
I thought it was all about cage free living, open roads and raw freedom here, until the region threw in a sudden surprise - Kiagar Tso. Take a look.
But the real reason for me to head there was the lesser visited, breathtaking, reserved wet land which is completely in Indian subcontinent - Tso Moriri. Getting to Tso Moriri is more like hunting down grizzled bastards harder than the toughest coffin nail, armed with only your wits, guts and whatever trusted weaponry you can carry. All I meant to say is, the roads are shitty. But once you get there, the lake takes you for a spin.
While sunshine renders different shades of blue to it's frozen water, Tso Moriri is perhaps more awe-striking than Pangong Tso. I always imagined myself to walk right into a painting one day which was still wet; it's lake brimming with aqua blue/turquoise water. My imagination came true once I reached the shores of Tso Moriri.
This amazing lake can unprecedentedly be called a poet's muse, not only because of the phenomenal view of the lake which turns all the more magical around sunset as shadows encroach the golden looking barren mountains, layer by layer. But because there's something special about it which simply cannot be described in words. See what I mean.
8 pm. It was dinner time and I was enjoying a typical Ladakhi supper at a Homestay. INR 300 for the dinner, stay and breakfast for the next day. And yeah, I was accompanied by an amazing mate from Mumbai. Abizar was his name. He had just completed his 16 day trek and was having a little time for himself (a 16 day trek in high Himalayas is no child's play. You need some major balls to do it). It was real whimsical sharing stories.
End of day 15.
Overnight stay = Karzok Village.
Stay type = Homestay.
20th of June 2015 (Day 15).
Karzok - Sumdo - Polokung La - Pang - Lachung La - Gata loops - Sarchu.
Total expenses = INR 630.
It was a gloomy day. I stopped on the way to take some photographs of the jaw-dropping Tso Moriri. Even in the obscurity, the lake looks stunning. The almost dark clouds added to the coolness quotient of this beautiful lake. This is how it looked even on a bad day.
The road until Sumdo was all okay, until I took a left to head towards Polokung La. One hardly knows that this road exists. Leave alone being completely isolated and completely wild. Taking this barbarous route proved a little costly for me. 10 am. All of a sudden it started to rain and the temperature dropped drastically. Well, it was no stopping there. I put on my raincoat and ride for another half-hour.
The elevation ridiculously increased and breathing became a task (scarce of oxygen). The motorcycle ran on mostly 1st and 2nd gear until it stopped at a crossroad. I had no idea why the engine had stopped. I tried starting the motorcycle for quite sometime. Nothing worked. I was in the mercy of mother nature (nature doesn't compromise and she's definitely a force not to be reckoned with).
I knew fear was a very bad thing in these situations (I was all alone with more than 80 kilos of luggage, experiencing severe cold in the pouring rain, shivering and not knowing why the engine died). And losing hope was disastrous. I wasn't ready to abandon my motorcycle and walk back to civilization, so in my final attempt, I sand the spark plug, increase the idling and kick start the bike. And in that dreadful scenario, I heard that one thing which I was longing for - "The signature Royal Enfield thump". Was I happy you ask?. **** yeah. I was ecstatic.
My happiness didn't last long. I see the crossroads not knowing which direction to go (no directions whatsoever). Talk about getting royally screwed. I thought about going back to Sumdo, head to Upshi and take a different route altogether. But that meant losing a day. Travails of a traveler ??. Hell no. The idea of cruising around, answering to no man as you doggedly pursue your adventure lust is as badass as it gets. So I wait in the rain for 20 more minutes until a local showed up. I quickly asked for directions and carried on with my job of being the God of the world (that's how you feel when you ride a Royal Enfield).
The route which was devoid of anything but dismal sight had Polokung La and Tso Kar (La is a pass and Tso is a lake in Tibetan language). After all the ordeal, I was finally cruising on the Manali-Leh highway. The fact that I was able to see the Himalayas in all their splendor as well as get a peek at the gorgeous landscapes while I was at it, was fulfilling.
I was savouring the sights and sounds of mother nature. Not to mention the switchbacks which required a fair amount of grey cells to guide my movements. Then at 15302 feet came Gata Loops. A total of 21 loops so whirling, it literally took the meaning of a hairpin bend to dizzy new heights. Considering the whole trip, I had ridden on some really trippy s*** (read as unbelievable roads), but this one absolutely took the cake. I just loved them curves.
Traveling along the richest trails and ranges, I found myself at a small shack near Sarchu. For 200 rupees, the place was an invigorating resting location. It was no 5 star hotel, but was a 5 billion star hotel (got it mate?). Stargazing after the most enriching motorcycle ride and a vigor dinner meant only one thing. "Heavenly".
Overnight stay = Somewhere near Sarchu.
Stay type = Well, let's consider it as a Homestay.
To be continued....
Until then, ride hard ride safe!!!..
